“National parks are the best idea we ever had. Absolutely American, absolutely democratic, they reflect us at our best rather than our worst.” [Wallace Stegner, Author, 1983]

As the National Parks Service celebrated its 100th Anniversary this year, it’s been fitting for us to visit the one that inspired them all, the world’s first: Yellowstone.

In 1869 this area was still an unknown and unexplored part of the country.  In just three years and three expeditions, the remarkable wonders of this area had resulted in the creation of a vast public and protected expanse – nearly 3,500 square miles (9000 sq kms) of spectacular lakes, mountain ranges, canyons, rivers and plains.  Bridging the continental divide, it sits atop one of the world’s largest active super volcanoes and contains half the world’s geyser’s.  In an era of unchecked development, it was a visionary and bold step; one that would set a precedent emulated around the world.

It’s difficult to capture both the sheer scale of this park, and the varied concentration of unique and beautiful geographies in one location.  It takes hours to drive just a quarter of it – but it is an ever changing catalog:  winding along a pristine rushing river, climbing through conifer forests, descending immense glacial valleys, being enveloped by steam from geothermal hot springs and then looping through desert-like landscapes.

And of course the wildlife.  Yellowstone is part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem which includes YNP, but also encompasses Grand Teton NP, five bordering National Forests (and their included Wilderness Areas) and the National Elk Refuge in Jackson – around ten times the area of the park itself.  This is one of the last large remaining intact ecosystems in the northern hemisphere, home to most of America’s megafauna.

Elk, mountain lion, mountain goats, big horned sheep, deer are all there.  Bison roam in healthy numbers – even though by 1902 there were only about two dozen remaining in Yellowstone until the US Army critically stepped in to protect them.  Wolves were exterminated from the park in a misguided but managed program to protect Elk, but in one of the more successful conservation efforts were reintroduced back in 1995.   Yellowstone was also a key component of successful efforts to protect the endangered Grizzly Bear.

Black Bear

Yellowstone

After a very unsociable early start, we enjoyed a really poignant guided tour by Shauna from the Yellowstone Association.  She had been studying the wolf population for 13 years, and had immense insight and knowledge of the packs and personalities of these incredibly social and intelligent creatures.  Elusive as they are, we were fortunate enough to see two from one of the packs atop a bison carcass in the cold of the morning.

The girls really enjoyed the geothermal attractions such as Old Faithful and Great Prismatic Springs – something they had not seen before, and were also were captivated by stories of real-life wolf soap operas which brought to life the complex social networks of the animals.  However, we still managed to do some pure kids stuff – white water rafting down the Yellowstone River, and some high country horseback trail rides in the Gallatin National Forest; something the adults enjoyed too!

Riding in backcountry Montana

Rafting down Yellowstone River

We have stayed in Montana in two different locations as part of this leg – two lovely cabins in this beautiful State, and one that we will explore further as we travel to and explore Glacier National Park next.  All photos from Yellowstone here.